Recipes: Cheese to please

by Lauraine Jacobs / 21 October, 2016
There are more reasons than ever to celebrate a month devoted to New Zealand’s favourite dairy food.
Georgian cheese bread (khachapuri). Photo/Liz Clarkson; styling by Kate Arbuthnot
Georgian cheese bread (khachapuri). Photo/Liz Clarkson; styling by Kate Arbuthnot


October is New Zealand Cheese Month, so it’s a good time to cook with cheese, try newer styles made by artisans and remember old favourites, such as the classic cheddars. A full calendar of events and tastings is being planned around the country, as each district has its own special cheesemakers (see box, next page).

Last century, every rural town had a dairy factory that processed milk from local farms into our famous cheddar. In the second half of the century, cheesemaking was consolidated and production was controlled for the most part by big players. Today, they consist of Fonterra and a handful of others. A few immigrants from countries where cheese played an important part in the diet made varieties in their own style, and we now have a legacy of beautifully made Dutch-style cheeses that constantly win awards.

More recent immigrants have stamped their mark on cheeses, sourcing milk from sheep, goats and buffalos. Artisan producers are now making lots of new varieties, including Italian-style fresh mozzarella, fetas and other fresh white cheeses, sweet Swiss-style holey cheese, different blues and, of course, many good interpretations of the fine cheeses of Spain and France. New Zealand has become a cheese lovers’ world.

On a recent trip to St Petersburg, I quickly exhausted my appetite for beetroot and beef stroganoff, and the caviar was delicious, but pricey. So we headed to a casual Georgian restaurant, where excellent breads were made and baked in a large wood-fired oven in front of us. The best was a loaf generously garnished with cheese. Back home, I started making this easy bread on weekends.

Georgian Cheese Bread (Khachapuri)


1 tsp active dry yeast

¼ tsp sugar

²∕³ cup warm water

1 tbsp olive oil, plus more for greasing

200g flour, plus extra for dusting

1 tsp flaky sea salt

125g grated havarti cheese

125g crumbled feta cheese

2 tbsp unsalted butter, cut into tiny cubes

Combine the yeast, sugar and warm water in a bowl, then let it stand until it froths – about 10 minutes. Add the oil, flour and salt, mixing with a wooden spoon until a soft dough forms. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic – about 4 minutes. Transfer to a lightly greased bowl, then cover loosely with plastic wrap. Leave in a warm place until it has doubled in size – about 45 minutes.

Place a pizza stone on a rack in the lower third of the oven. Heat the oven to 220°C for 1 hour. Combine the cheeses in a bowl, then set aside.

Punch down the dough and divide in two. On a piece of lightly floured parchment paper, roll one half into a 20cm circle about 1cm thick. Spread a quarter of the cheese mixture over the dough, leaving a 10cm border. Tightly roll the dough about a quarter of the way towards the centre. Repeat with the other side. Pinch the open ends of the rolls together and twist to seal, creating a boat shape. Place another quarter of the cheese mixture in the centre. Use the remaining dough and cheese to make a second loaf.

Slide the loaves off the paper onto the pizza stone, leaving 10cm between them. Bake for 14-16 minutes or until golden brown. Spread half the butter on each. Serve warm.

Serves 4 as a snack or to accompany a simple meal

Scones can be made and served in under 30 minutes. A classic cheese scone, still warm and generously buttered, will always be a favourite for morning or afternoon tea.

Classic cheese scones. Photo/Liz Clarkson; styling by Kate Arbuthnot
Classic cheese scones. Photo/Liz Clarkson; styling by Kate Arbuthnot

Classic cheese scones


3 cups flour

5 tsp baking powder

pinch of salt

100g butter, grated

½ cup grated tasty cheddar cheese

½ cup grated havarti cheese

1½ cups milk or buttermilk at room temperature

Preheat the oven to 220°C. Prepare an oven tray by lightly flouring the surface.

Sift the dry ingredients into a large bowl. Add the butter and rub in very gently with your fingertips until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Add the cheeses, stirring through evenly with a fork. Pour in most of the milk, then mix quickly, adding extra milk if necessary, until a soft dough forms.

Turn the mixture onto a floured board and knead lightly to bring it together. Pat it out into a rectangle, then fold in half and pat out again to form a rectangle about 25cm x 15cm.

Cut the mixture into 12 even-sized pieces and place on the oven tray. Brush the tops with milk and scatter over some extra cheese. Bake for 12-15 minutes or until golden with crisp edges. Serve warm with butter.

Makes 12

NZ Cheese Month


The variety of activities offered in October will give turophiles (from the Greek tyros, meaning “cheese” and philos “loving”) the chance to try new cheeses and make their own under expert guidance.

Highlights include:

  • Wairarapa artisan deli C’est Cheese will be hosting Fabulous Featherston Fondue Fridays throughout October from 5.30-6.30pm.

  • Based in the Marlborough Sounds, Cranky Goat will launch a new cheese called Linkwater Log. For every cheese sold, the company will donate 50c to Whole Lotta Life Foundation, which supports people aged 20-45 who have cancer (wholelotta­life.org).

  • Little Farm Cheese Co in Oxford, Canterbury, is running an amateur cheese competition on October 30 for home cheesemakers (details on the website below), and the Oxford Farmers Market is inviting home cheesemakers to bring their products to a tasting and informal judging by all the tasters.

  • Puhoi Valley Cheese Company’s cafe will be the venue for a cheese appreciation evening with its head cheesemaker, Franck Beaurain, on October 27.


More events can be found at cheeselovers.co.nz or on Facebook.

Follow the Listener on Twitter or Facebook.

Latest

Pumla Gobodo-Madikizela on the tragedy of post-apartheid South Africa
108416 2019-07-17 00:00:00Z Profiles

Pumla Gobodo-Madikizela on the tragedy of post-apa…

by Clare de Lore

Scathing critic of South African Government corruption Pumla Gobodo-Madikizela, here to give a public lecture, has insights about forgiveness after...

Read more
Writer Robert Macfarlane finds deeps truths in Underland
108287 2019-07-17 00:00:00Z Books

Writer Robert Macfarlane finds deeps truths in Und…

by Tony Murrow

In a new book, Robert Macfarlane heads underground to ponder mankind’s effect on the planet.

Read more
Why extra virgin olive oil is back on the menu for frying
108203 2019-07-17 00:00:00Z Nutrition

Why extra virgin olive oil is back on the menu for…

by Jennifer Bowden

For decades, the word in the kitchen has been that olive oil shouldn’t be used for frying, but new research could change that.

Read more
Abstract artist Gretchen Albrecht's true colours
108108 2019-07-16 00:00:00Z Profiles

Abstract artist Gretchen Albrecht's true colours

by Linda Herrick

Gretchen Albrecht paintings may be intangible, but they are triggered by real-life experience, she tells Linda Herrick.

Read more
That's a Bit Racist is playful, but it packs a punch
108435 2019-07-16 00:00:00Z Television

That's a Bit Racist is playful, but it packs a pun…

by Diana Wichtel

The taboo-busting doco is trying to change our default settings on race, but some people aren't stoked.

Read more
Are there too many tourists in NZ?
108444 2019-07-16 00:00:00Z Life in NZ

Are there too many tourists in NZ?

by North & South

Here's what's inside North and South's August 2019 issue.

Read more
Huawei's dogged determination: Can it make a breakthrough in New Zealand?
108428 2019-07-16 00:00:00Z Tech

Huawei's dogged determination: Can it make a break…

by Peter Griffin

The tech company at the centre of a trade war between the US and China is willing to go to extraordinary lengths to prove it can be trusted.

Read more
The many miracles of Aretha Franklin movie Amazing Grace
108368 2019-07-15 00:00:00Z Movies

The many miracles of Aretha Franklin movie Amazing…

by Russell Baillie

A long-lost concert movie capturing Lady Soul in her prime is heading to the New Zealand International Film Festival.

Read more